Al, most discussions I've seen on here recommend using flat aluminum for wheel paint, and it's worked well for me.
As for prep, depends on what shape they're in. I've used needle scalers and wire wheels and sandblasted. The method depends really on how much rust and how deep it is, i.e. some balance between making sure you've got the worst of the rust gone while making sure you leave enough metal to hold air (even under a tube) and the weight of the tractor safely.
For rust treatment, I've used a Permatex spray-on rust stopper for small areas. For larger expanses on rusty rims, I use a product I found at Home Depot or Lowe's in the paint department -- JASCO rust treatment, light green in a round quart bottle. There are other similar products. I've been told of one called Ospho. Basically they're a dilute solution of phosphoric acid that converts any remaining rust from iron oxide to iron phosphate, much more stable. about the same concept as bluing a gun barrel, and both leave a primable, paintable surface, though they might require some scuffing before putting anything on top of them.
As for the rest of the tractor. Depends on whether pretty is important. Short of a complete paint job, a good cleaning followed by a wire wheel and a rust treatment is a good start for any problem spot. If you're not fussy, good old IH2150 in a rattle can over the rust treatment (again, scuff it first) will stop any deterioration.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Earthmaster - by Staff. This tractor, manufactured by the Earthmaster Farm Equipment company in Burbank, California was made for only two years. The Model C came out in 1948 and was followed by the "CN" (narrow-width model), "CNH (narrow-width high-crop model), "CH" (high-crop), "D" and the "DH" (high-crop) in 1949. The main difference between the models was tire size, tractor width and cultivating height. The "D" series were about 20 inches wider overall than the
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