Good question, complex answer. The diagrams (Bob M's) will be fine for making stock lights with equivalent wattage 12v bulbs work correctly. If trailer lights are needed, or additional tractor lights, they should be supplied separately from the load side of the Amp gauge with a separate 20 amp fuse and switch. The original light switch will not carry the load. Lights should be placed on the wagon such that all corners are lit. at the height of the flat of the deck. Reflective tape should be placed on the rear to mark the top right and left corners of the rear endgate. Running 14 gauge Zip cord (two conductor vinyl covered appliance wire) down each side works well and is tidy. If you use LED lights, the cord can be 18 gauge, and the light switch would handle that added load. It will not handle bright halogen headlights or tail illumination lights. I would use a switch box and fuse that can be disconnected easily and kept with the trailer lights to make it easy to get ready the next time. Good fun, JimN
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Earthmaster - by Staff. This tractor, manufactured by the Earthmaster Farm Equipment company in Burbank, California was made for only two years. The Model C came out in 1948 and was followed by the "CN" (narrow-width model), "CNH (narrow-width high-crop model), "CH" (high-crop), "D" and the "DH" (high-crop) in 1949. The main difference between the models was tire size, tractor width and cultivating height. The "D" series were about 20 inches wider overall than the
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