Good question, complex answer. The diagrams (Bob M's) will be fine for making stock lights with equivalent wattage 12v bulbs work correctly. If trailer lights are needed, or additional tractor lights, they should be supplied separately from the load side of the Amp gauge with a separate 20 amp fuse and switch. The original light switch will not carry the load. Lights should be placed on the wagon such that all corners are lit. at the height of the flat of the deck. Reflective tape should be placed on the rear to mark the top right and left corners of the rear endgate. Running 14 gauge Zip cord (two conductor vinyl covered appliance wire) down each side works well and is tidy. If you use LED lights, the cord can be 18 gauge, and the light switch would handle that added load. It will not handle bright halogen headlights or tail illumination lights. I would use a switch box and fuse that can be disconnected easily and kept with the trailer lights to make it easy to get ready the next time. Good fun, JimN
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Today's Featured Article - The Cletrac General GG and the BF Avery A - A Bit of History - by Mike Ballash. This article is a summary of what I have gathered up from various sources on the Gletrac General GG and the B. F. Avery model A tractors. I am quite sure that most of it is accurate. The General GG was made by the Cleveland Tractor Company (Cletrac) of Cleveland, Ohio. Originally the company was called the Cleveland Motor Plow Company which began in 1912, then the Cleveland Tractor Company (1917) and finally Cletrac.
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