The compression should be 80PSI or so. something is wrong in this process. Here is my opinion (I know it may sound redundant, but humor me) with the plugs out, and valve cover off, use a hand crank, or jack up one rear wheel and use high gear to rotate the engine. Place a stiff 1 foot long piece of copper wire in the #1 plug hole. rotate the engine to be sure it is at TDC (and on the timing mark, and the rotor is pointing to #1 cap terminal). The valves will now be closed on #1 cylinder Rotate the engine slowly in the correct direction. The valves will remain closed for 1/2 revolution. THe exhaust valve will begin to open when the piston begins to go back up. At the top of the stroke the valves overlap, and both are kinda open (exhaust closing, and intake opening) The TDC mark will go by, and the rotor will now be pointing 180 degrees from the #1 terminal, to the #4 terminal. Continue to rotate as the piston goes down, the intake will remain closed till about the bottom of the stroke, then it will close (both valves now closed) Turning farther will bring the piston back up on the compression stroke. Valves will remain closed through this motion. If this is not what is happening, the cam is out of time. Also: If you set the valves when the piston is at TDC on compression, they will be correct. Best of luck, JimN
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Today's Featured Article - Field Modifications (Sins of the Farmer) - by Staff. Picture a new Chevrolet driving down the street without it's grill, right fender and trunk lid. Imagine a crude hole made in the hood to accommodate a new taller air cleaner, the fender wells cut away to make way for larger tires, and half of a sliding glass door used to replace the windshield. Top that off with an old set of '36 Ford headlight shells bolted to the hood. Pretty unlikely for a car... but for a tractor, this is pretty normal. It seems that more often than not they a
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