The compression should be 80PSI or so. something is wrong in this process. Here is my opinion (I know it may sound redundant, but humor me) with the plugs out, and valve cover off, use a hand crank, or jack up one rear wheel and use high gear to rotate the engine. Place a stiff 1 foot long piece of copper wire in the #1 plug hole. rotate the engine to be sure it is at TDC (and on the timing mark, and the rotor is pointing to #1 cap terminal). The valves will now be closed on #1 cylinder Rotate the engine slowly in the correct direction. The valves will remain closed for 1/2 revolution. THe exhaust valve will begin to open when the piston begins to go back up. At the top of the stroke the valves overlap, and both are kinda open (exhaust closing, and intake opening) The TDC mark will go by, and the rotor will now be pointing 180 degrees from the #1 terminal, to the #4 terminal. Continue to rotate as the piston goes down, the intake will remain closed till about the bottom of the stroke, then it will close (both valves now closed) Turning farther will bring the piston back up on the compression stroke. Valves will remain closed through this motion. If this is not what is happening, the cam is out of time. Also: If you set the valves when the piston is at TDC on compression, they will be correct. Best of luck, JimN
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Today's Featured Article - Pitfalls of Tractor Engine Rebuilds - by Chris Pratt. The first pop after you have put the machine together with your own hands is exciting and pleasing. The whole experience can be marred if one moves too fast and makes too many assumptions that they can just use "as is" some parts they should be closely scrutinizing and possibly attended to. In such cases, rework makes what could have been a fun project turn into an irritant or even a nightmare. Minor Irritants To give you an example of an minor but irritating proble
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