The compression should be 80PSI or so. something is wrong in this process. Here is my opinion (I know it may sound redundant, but humor me) with the plugs out, and valve cover off, use a hand crank, or jack up one rear wheel and use high gear to rotate the engine. Place a stiff 1 foot long piece of copper wire in the #1 plug hole. rotate the engine to be sure it is at TDC (and on the timing mark, and the rotor is pointing to #1 cap terminal). The valves will now be closed on #1 cylinder Rotate the engine slowly in the correct direction. The valves will remain closed for 1/2 revolution. THe exhaust valve will begin to open when the piston begins to go back up. At the top of the stroke the valves overlap, and both are kinda open (exhaust closing, and intake opening) The TDC mark will go by, and the rotor will now be pointing 180 degrees from the #1 terminal, to the #4 terminal. Continue to rotate as the piston goes down, the intake will remain closed till about the bottom of the stroke, then it will close (both valves now closed) Turning farther will bring the piston back up on the compression stroke. Valves will remain closed through this motion. If this is not what is happening, the cam is out of time. Also: If you set the valves when the piston is at TDC on compression, they will be correct. Best of luck, JimN
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Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
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