If gas is leaking on floor, it would do that either with fuel needle valve ON or OFF, no? Sounds like the leak is AROUND the shaft. I don't know what the original packing is like, but I think, like some of the helpful people who wrote here, that some sort of plumbing packing might work. If you have ever repacked a standard plumbing valve by wrapping a little teflon plumber's packing OR the string-type of packing around the stem and then putting the nut back on and tightening a bit, you'll know what I mean (both types of packing sold in plumbing section of hardware stores), you'll know what I mean. Can be done in five minutes. Agree with others here NOT to tighten the fuel valve too much. If it is correctly shaped and smooth, it will shut off the fuel. Sometimes after years of wear, a groove gets cut in the tapered part of the valve, and there will be a leak through the fuel line, but this shouldn't affect the seal at the packing nut. Everything here is probably brass, and can take only so much pressure. This includes the brass nut that the packing would go into. Hope this helps a little. It is great how people share their ideas with one another here.
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Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
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