Oh let's see how many of these transmissions I have shifted: 706, 886, 1066, 1206, 1466. I have many hours on all of these tractors. If the linkage is worn at all these transmissions have a habit of getting into two gears at the same time, at which time you will stop and manually unjam the linkage with a hammer and scredriver (tractor has to be shut off). These transmissions are not meant to be shifted on the fly since all of these models had a T/A. You can upshift in same range sometimes but down-shifting or changing ranges just won't work. I use 2nd gear a lot for pulling wagons and errands. L2 for control, H2 5 - 10 MPH is a good barnyard and across field speed, and reverse in 2nd is not too fast. That way I am only shifting one lever most of the time and then into H3 or H4 for moving down the road. For comparison L4 is the normal "field work" gear for pulling planters and tillage equipment. In the old days we use to plow in L3.
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Today's Featured Article - The Engine Rebuild Kit - by Curtis Von Fange. I always liked engine rebuild kits. They have all the replacement parts for overhauling an engine without going to the store to get gaskets, special measuring tools, or miscellaneous parts. They come neatly packaged, clean and tidy. But it's important not to let that packaging lull you into a false sense of security. The appearance of matching sleeves, pistons, rings, and bearings can cause frustration and agony if not properly measured and installed in a workshop environment. Following c
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