Posted by Hugh MacKay on February 15, 2008 at 12:42:09 from (216.208.58.101):
In Reply to: brakes on farmall 140 posted by Bill Dolbow on February 15, 2008 at 11:08:58:
Bill: The rear wheels and final drives have to come off. The right side is relatively easy, if your new to this do the right first. Left is not really any more difficult, just harder to stabilize the tractor. Drive wedges in pivot of front axle. It's best to remove wheel, then unbolt hitch or drawbar from final drive.
From there it's best to have some type of jacking wheeled device similar to a transmission jack to attach to the final drive. Final drive only has to come about 8-10 inches away from tractor to change the brakes, unless you get into seals and bearings.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Earthmaster - by Staff. This tractor, manufactured by the Earthmaster Farm Equipment company in Burbank, California was made for only two years. The Model C came out in 1948 and was followed by the "CN" (narrow-width model), "CNH (narrow-width high-crop model), "CH" (high-crop), "D" and the "DH" (high-crop) in 1949. The main difference between the models was tire size, tractor width and cultivating height. The "D" series were about 20 inches wider overall than the
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