first i tear down tractor part by part, i sandblast all hanging parts. i then remove/degrease engine, and scab or scale all cast. i try not to blast anything sensitive to exposure of media-its very hard on seals/gaskets, hydraulics ect..., all sheet metal is primed with sealer/ sanded and sealed again. i use a martin senour epoxy sealer non etching from napa that is made to go over base sealer this also contains a hardener so all sanding has to be final at this point of application. paint is 2-base 1 final of martin senour paint from napa store hardener added. (2 STEP) paint codes are obtained from data base provided to me from napa store. and color seems very close to ih red/white color match. ITS a expensive way to paint a tractor, but maybe it will pay off if the paint job still looks good years from now. I painted 2-ford tractors this same way a few years back, and they still have that freshly painted look, im not a expert painter, just have a passion to preserve the heritage of old iron! i can get paint #'S IF anyone likes, but please dont hold me responsible if product is not what you like all products were purchased from my local napa auto parts store. thanks, JIM P.S. This 340 utility took about 33 hours of prep to paint job. The project to completion (never 100% completed) took a total of about 127 hours. i need lots more wisdom in mechanics. only one way to learn--get dirty!!!! Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Trenching With a Plow - by Staff. Introduction: This interesting information came from one of the discussion forums here at YT. We thought we should place it up front so it could be read by anyone interested in putting old iron to work. [Editor] I tried something new today, and it worked so well I thought I should post it - in case it might help someone else. I'm running 100 yards of 4" drain pipe from the gutter downspouts of our house to a pond down the hill. This should hel
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