An ammeter is the best indicator of how effectively your tank is working. There is an electrochemical process going on in converting the rust to a stable form, and the more current flow, measured in amps, the more electrons are being supplied hence the more reaction is made to occur. The more amps you can generate and make to flow, the quicker the period for the rust on the part to be converted.
The higher the voltage applied, the more electric force to drive the current, hence more amps. The more anodes you have, the more surface area to transfer those amps through the solution to the part. Increasing solution strength beyond the recommended level has little or no effect because the ion strength in the solution is not the limiting factor.
I've found the biggest effect in an operating tank is cleaning off the anodes. It's also the least pleasant, and most time consuming, as you have to disconnect everything to take the anodes out to clean. As salts accumulate on their surface, there's less effective area for electrons to be transfered. Monitor the ammeter, and record the amps when the anodes are new, or have been just cleaned. As time goes on you'll see the amps drop. That means it's time to clean the crud layer off of the anodes. Other issues include how heavy your wire gauge is, and how clean the connections between the wires and the anodes.
By the way, to create deadly hydrogen sulfide, you have to have a source of sulfur. There is no sulfur in stainless steel.
I found an old DC power supply that generates 30 volts, and it helps complete the process much quicker than a 12 v charger. I've wondered how it would work to use a DC welder as a power source, but haven't tried it yet.
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Today's Featured Article - Dad's 1945 Farmall A - by Bobby Duke Jr.. I am writing about my Dad's 1945 Farmall A. The tractor was purchased in 1945 by his father, Mr. Davis Duke. It was used to farm tobacco from 1945 to 1963 by my grandfather and by my father.
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