In the input shaft it looks like the outside race of bearing is still there and not all the way forward, so the ring grove is just covered by the race. I don"t have a puller to get them out so I carefuly take a die grinder and make the race thin in one or 2 spots,then take a punch and bust it and pull it out. On removing the rear bearing of input shaft, screw the bolt with a few washers under it in the end of shaft tight. Hold the shaft by the gears in two hands with end of shaft down. bring end of shaft down hard on a solid surfice. Only had one bearing out of many that would"nt jar down off shaft in one to eight licks. M&W must have made several small changes to there units over time, but all I messed with (10 plus) had a snap ring in the input shaft. If the race goes in correct I don"t think the ring holds anything most times, because it goes in tight. Once you ask about how thin the back part of M&W shaft is. There only about .063 at rear part and about 2.050 inside with race out. If I remember correct the ring grove is 5/8 inch in from rear of shaft. If you get a new pilot bearing from aftermarket, watch for quality, I learned the hard way by ordering one last month and it was so inferier to original that I would"nt use and they would"nt take it back, $68. Have removed several regular input shafts with race retaining ring missing that caused no problems. Believe your grove may still be there though.
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Today's Featured Article - Pitfalls of Tractor Engine Rebuilds - by Chris Pratt. The first pop after you have put the machine together with your own hands is exciting and pleasing. The whole experience can be marred if one moves too fast and makes too many assumptions that they can just use "as is" some parts they should be closely scrutinizing and possibly attended to. In such cases, rework makes what could have been a fun project turn into an irritant or even a nightmare. Minor Irritants To give you an example of an minor but irritating proble
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