I've been through similar problems. I adjusted the float by pushing on the viton needle into the seat and it began to stick. Tried some anti-seize on the tip and that didn't help. Finally got a new needle and seat from cnh. Seems like I've seen the all brass needle valves in the kits at TSC. Maybe NAPA has them but I never checked.
They are finicky. They either stick closed or stay open and don't shut off flow.
I had a slight indention in the float where the needle rode all the time. That kept the needle from seating and it flowed all the time and out the carb intake until it started. I took an 1/8" off the float setting which left the float a little high and then it began to work.
Also after finding it lower on gas than I left it every time, I began using the fuel shut off valve and ran it till it quit. The new sediment bowl shut off still allowed a drip out the carb when the needle wouldn't seat so I put a ball valve shut off in there which I now use. So far so good.
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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