I've been through similar problems. I adjusted the float by pushing on the viton needle into the seat and it began to stick. Tried some anti-seize on the tip and that didn't help. Finally got a new needle and seat from cnh. Seems like I've seen the all brass needle valves in the kits at TSC. Maybe NAPA has them but I never checked.
They are finicky. They either stick closed or stay open and don't shut off flow.
I had a slight indention in the float where the needle rode all the time. That kept the needle from seating and it flowed all the time and out the carb intake until it started. I took an 1/8" off the float setting which left the float a little high and then it began to work.
Also after finding it lower on gas than I left it every time, I began using the fuel shut off valve and ran it till it quit. The new sediment bowl shut off still allowed a drip out the carb when the needle wouldn't seat so I put a ball valve shut off in there which I now use. So far so good.
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Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
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