The issue is compression, and this tractor can use all it can get. 11-12 hp is not much. The pistons will make more power. That said, the other issue is we can't tell how high the domes are. There are no valve clearance issues on a flat head engine design. So, the only way to check this is to put a piston on a rod and put it on the crank with the insert. (rings not needed). Place a thin layer of clay over the top of the piston (1/16" thick) then use the old head gasket, and a few head bolts in that cylinder to hold it down pretty well, no need to torque it. Then ---hand--- turn the engine through one revolution. and pull the head. If no marks, good to go. if marks are made, measure the thiscness of clay in the mark. If 1/32" or less, and in one spot, all the pistons need to be evenly machined to clear the 1/16" requirement (usually not much, but evenly to maintain exact wt.) If it rotates and stops hard against something, leave it there, do not force (even by hand) the engine through the TDC position. THis will tell the tale. Good luck, JimN
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Today's Featured Article - Restoration Story: 1951 Farmall H - by The Red (John Fritz). I have been a collector of Farmall tractors since 1990 when I first obtained part of the family farm in Eastern Indiana. My current collection includes a 1938 F20, 1945 H, 1946 H, and the recently purchased 1951 H. This article will focus on what I encountered and what I did to bring the 1951 NEAR DEATH Farmall H back to life.
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