Posted by Janicholson on April 04, 2008 at 05:56:20 from (199.17.6.122):
In Reply to: Re: oil dripps posted by 160dan on April 04, 2008 at 03:30:20:
The leaks are internal, Four possible types. Engine oil from rear main (split needed) Trans input shaft seal, No split needed, info follows (re-copied from my earlier post), a Countershaft seal at the hydrasulic Liftall pump drive shaft or Liftall input shaft seal leak. (these do not require remaval of pump (but may be easier if done)
Re-copied from an earlier post on leaks. The shaft in question is the trans input shaft. Attached to that with a special coupler is the clutch shaft going into the clutch. First remove the Liftall pump (a manual helps in all ways) It is heavy and topples easily (many posts on how to do it, Two people, and a floor jack, or transmission jack are good. With that out of the way, The upper coupling is disassembled (take pictures of it, and mark using permanent marker on clean metal to assure reassembly in its correct positions and direction. It is very important to do this. Remove the back half of the coupling (yolk)by removing the nut now visible. I think the seal can be changed at this point by prying it out (careful not to damage scratch the bore). Look at the coupling yolk to see if it has a groove in it from the seal. If seviere, it is necessary to position the new seal in a different location to run on fresh shaft, or use a speedy sleeve on the shaft to make it have a good seal. Options are to use a different thinner seal with the same OD and ID, or put it in farther, or less far to avoid the groove. If the groove is just barely able to be felt with a fingernail, it is probably OK. Grease the new seal lip before assembling the yolk. As an aside, the removal of the clutch shaft takes some serious maneuvering. Putting in three of the pressure plate to flywheel bolts in the pressure plate cover to release the pressure plate is a positive move. Use the archives here to your advantage, many posts on this subject. JimN
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