I'm not going to get into all the electrical jargon, because electricity is magic to me, just like radio and TV, cell phones, computers, etc,etc. But if you have a good battery, good cables, and a good regulator, the thing works. I don't run my tractors for more than an hour or two at a time, mostly less than that, but generally I only get a couple of amps charge on the tractor ammeter, and sometimes barely to the right of the 0. They start and run. I have run my Super A for a couple of hours with the ammeter showing discharge to the point that it would not start with the battery if I shut it off. I could start it with the crank, though. It did not run rough when the battery was nearly "dead". Distributer, not mag. I think you have a bad battery, new or not. Of course, I am usually wrong.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Farmall M - by Staff. H so that mountable implements were interchaneable. The Farmall M was most popular with large-acreage row-crop farmers. It was powered by either a high-compression gas engine or a distillate version with lower compression. Options included the Lift-All hydraulic system, a belt pulley, PTO, rubber tires, starter, lights and a swinging drawbar. It could be ordered in the high-crop, wide-front or tricycle configurations. The high-crop version was called a Model MV.
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