12V at the solenoid doesn't tell you much. It could read 12V, but still be a poor connection. Make sure all your connections are Clean, Bright, and Tight. Blue flakes, dark green metal, are indications of poor connections that can't flow the Amps necessary to activate the starter.
You should be getting a click at the solenoid if you apply power to the S terminal. If it's not clicking, then that would be the first thing I'd suspect. Give the solenoid a solid tap with a piece of pipe or a small hammer while trying to start the tractor. We frequently had problems with the solenoid conversion on the old M, and giving it a good smack with the crescent wrench usually freed it up for a few starts. Now that it's got a decent solenoid on it, it works pretty good.
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Today's Featured Article - Field Modifications (Sins of the Farmer) - by Staff. Picture a new Chevrolet driving down the street without it's grill, right fender and trunk lid. Imagine a crude hole made in the hood to accommodate a new taller air cleaner, the fender wells cut away to make way for larger tires, and half of a sliding glass door used to replace the windshield. Top that off with an old set of '36 Ford headlight shells bolted to the hood. Pretty unlikely for a car... but for a tractor, this is pretty normal. It seems that more often than not they a
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