The "inside" of the race is typically smaller diameter than the seat, so that it makes a lip. You should be able to take a punchchisel through one side to catch that lip on the back of the race on the other side. Just start tapping and moving the punch to four or five different points around the perimeter of the back of the race, and walk it out, moving your blows to keep it going reasonably straight. It might take what I call "smart blows", NOT wallops, the first time around, but once it starts evenly, it should walk right out. Like most jobs the second one will come out in one-quarter the time of the first, and in this case all the more so because once the first one is out, you most likely (not guaranteed, YMMV) will have more of an opening that will allow you to drive straight down on the second, instead of going in at an angle like you'll probably have to do with the first one.
Just get in there before you start with some kero or gas on a rag and clean off the back side of each one enough that you can distinguish the back of the race from the metal that it bottoms out on, so you'll know that you're tapping directly on the race. Shouldn't be difficult.
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Today's Featured Article - Field Modifications (Sins of the Farmer) - by Staff. Picture a new Chevrolet driving down the street without it's grill, right fender and trunk lid. Imagine a crude hole made in the hood to accommodate a new taller air cleaner, the fender wells cut away to make way for larger tires, and half of a sliding glass door used to replace the windshield. Top that off with an old set of '36 Ford headlight shells bolted to the hood. Pretty unlikely for a car... but for a tractor, this is pretty normal. It seems that more often than not they a
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