Well, if the carb is under that much gunk, I'll bet you don't get much out of the carb-synch exercise, but it's still worth checkin' out and good wrenchin' practice. That adjustment usually is reserved for after removing and installin' an existing carb or installin' a new one.
Yep, the line, from the inlet at the bottom of the tank into the sediment bowl, through the screen in the bowl and the screen at the carb inlet, is the first places to look. After that, flow means cleanin' and blowin' out the carb as part of a kit rebuild.
Your block serial number is on the same side but up in the other corner from the oil filter. There's a flat spot machined into the block, at the top edge, just under the head and below the number one plug. It's probably caked up, too, and even when it's clean it's probably also obscured by the rod running from your speed control to the governor. Might need to use a mirror or remove the hood to get a good look at it.
The Chicago-built As and Bs, the serial numbers always matched. While the serial number on the chassis was always very neatly stamped and even, the engine ser # was often very obviously stamped one digit at a time, crooked and at various depths, suggesting it was stamped by hand, perhaps so that it would match up to the chassis number. The Louisville-built tractors, it wasn't unusual for the numbers to stray apart by a thousand or more. If yours is a Louisville tractor, I'd be interested to know how neatly the number is stamped into the block. I've always had this theory that when Louisville began production, they stamped the chassis numbers serially as they went onto the line, and the same with the numbers on the blocks (so, by machine instead of hand), and that where they got apart were engines that were either rejected or were diverted to things like combines or power units.
And as far as the show circuit, I'm no fan of the correct police. Yeah, I like to have the original style hose clamps and things like that when I can get them, but when I restored my BN (a family tractor -- been in the family since it was new and it's the machine I learned to drive on) I wasn't above "restorin" a few bent nails that were put in place of cotter pins for field repairs. Anybody tries to rip you on a serial number or anything else, snend them back over to the green tractor section where they likely came from, or ask where their tractor is, so you can go look to see how it's supposed to be done. I've done that a few times and never once have they had a machine there of their own. He11, I went to a show last summer where there was a van-load of the turkeys, all in khakis with matching polo shirts with their club logo (somethin' or oOther Hose and Ladder Co.), runnin' all over the grounds pickin' apart everything there. I said vanload -- they weren't exhibitors, they were a bunch of frustrated wannabes, and not worth gettin' aggravated about. Laughable in fact.
If you have or can borrow a trailer to get your tractor there (or if not, just wanna go for a looksee) there's a nice little show up (or is it down) from you in Thornton, NH (the Tripoli exit, whichever that is, off of 93, just below Lincoln and Woodstock). It's Satursay the a9th of this month. If you're interested, put a "Hey, Les!) message up over on Tractor Tales. It's his show and he can fill ya in on the when and where. I know he'd be glad to have ya, whether you can get your tractor there or not, And you might find it fun. Les favors workin' tractors, and you'll see verything from wet paint to rust on the machines there.
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Today's Featured Article - Talk of the Town: How to Remove a Broken Bolt - by Staff. Another neat discussion from the Tractor Talk Discussion Forum. The discussion started out with the following post: "I have an aluminum steering gear housing with a bolt broken off in it. The bolt is about a 3/8" x 1 1/2" bolt. I've already drilled the center of the bolt out with about 7/64" drill bit the entire length of the bolt. Only one end of the bolt is visible. I tried to use an easy out but it wasn't budging and I didn't want t
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