Donald: You already know the sound it makes when retarded. At the other end it will start to labor when too far advanced. I like to pick a spot midway between the two, and keeping it so it starts, and indeed fires up quickly. Then I go and put the tractor on light work, armed with 1/2" wrench. from there I don't do anything quickly, and may or may not make minor adjustments depending on performance. A good hard and extended drawbar pull after tractor is warmed up well, is a good idea.
This takes practice and you'll find you get better as time goes on. The old guy I learned from said patience was of utmost importance. He made his living rebuilding mainly Farmall gassers. Of the 100 or so Farmall farmers around him, I'm betting 98% took their IH tractor engines to him for rebuild. I do know the IH dealer some 30 miles away did consult with him on ocasion when they encountered a problem they couldn't solve. He would not put an engine together when folks were in his shop. He claimed farmers milling about, telling yarns, chewing or smoking tobacco, etc. created too much dust. It was dairy country, so he went back to shop when most farmers were milking their cows, went in and locked all doors, that was engine assembly time. I wonder how many YT rebuilders are that particular?
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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