Here's how I was taught to read the castings on IH tractors from that era. In your "10-27-E" casting, the "E" stands for the year while the "10-27" means that that particular piece was cast on October 27th of that year. That's how I was told you could check to see if a tractor is original or cobbled together. If the casting numbers around the tractor fit within a month or so (but usually less) then they are probably original pieces. So if it were me I'd try to find a block with as close to "10-27-E" as possible.
The reason I can't tell you what year "E" stands for is that my experience comes with H's and W4's. They started out in 1939 with "I"s, then 1940 models (like my H) were "J"s, 41's were "K"s and so on. My 1949 W4 has "S"s all over it. So you get the idea.
I'm not sure where E fits in to that system, but just about any big piece of cast iron on the tractor (axle housings, trans. cover, etc.) should match up pretty closely.
If anyone else sees something incorrect about my logic here, I'd love to know because this is something I've taken as truth for a long time.
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Today's Featured Article - Fabrication (Who Me? Make it myself?) - by Chris Pratt. First of all, what are the reasons for not fabricatin your own parts? Most judgements on what should be purchased rather than fabricated stem from: Originality - If the tractor restoration is to be 100% original, it is likely that you should spend the time and money to locate the component in the used or New-old-stock market. Since this can be extremely difficult, you may want to fabricate the item or purchase a modern replacement temporarily, but eventually, you s
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