Another thought, following up on Jim's. To replace the crank gear, you're going to have to remove the pulley from the crank to get it and the timing case cover out of the way. If you happen to have a big puller and the head for it to fit around the groove in the pulley it can be done, but it can be a bear and is much easier on a press and less apt to break or ship the pulley. A regular two or three jaw puller will often just bust chips out the edges of the pulley without moving a thing, leaving you to have to replace that, too. That argues for taking it in to have it pressed off, at which point you might as well have the new gears in hand and have them pressed back on while you're there. And I can say for sure that, press or no, heat is a big help in getting the pulley off and back on.
The cam itself comes out pretty easily with bolts you reach through holes in the gear. Removing it does mean lifting your rocker arm assembly to get your push rods out beforehand so that the cam comes out smoothly. Not that much added in work in the context of what you're into already.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Earthmaster - by Staff. This tractor, manufactured by the Earthmaster Farm Equipment company in Burbank, California was made for only two years. The Model C came out in 1948 and was followed by the "CN" (narrow-width model), "CNH (narrow-width high-crop model), "CH" (high-crop), "D" and the "DH" (high-crop) in 1949. The main difference between the models was tire size, tractor width and cultivating height. The "D" series were about 20 inches wider overall than the
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