Even the dual-fuel (gas and either kerosene or distillate) motors in the letter series had to be warmed up on gas before they'd even begin to burn the other. The MDs started on gas through a carb, but had a lever to switch over to regular diesel injectors.
Bio-diesel could actually be a better/more efficient fuel than whatever it was they called distillate (everything I've read suggests it was pretty trashy, a byproduct of refining gas and diesel that would still actually burn), but even if you were able to cut in an extra tank for starting on gas and cobble something together for a pre-heater for your bio stuff, I doubt you could ever get the kind of atomization from the updraft carb and the heat of the manifold to make it burn effectively.
What you're trying to do is worthy of respect but, to my mind, you'd be better off finding a decent used 2 or 3 cylinder diesel tractor. Bolens and Iseki made some way back with Isuzu diesels in them that can be found pretty reasonably, as can some of the older tractors of various makes with Yanmar power.
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Today's Featured Article - Fabrication (Who Me? Make it myself?) - by Chris Pratt. First of all, what are the reasons for not fabricatin your own parts? Most judgements on what should be purchased rather than fabricated stem from: Originality - If the tractor restoration is to be 100% original, it is likely that you should spend the time and money to locate the component in the used or New-old-stock market. Since this can be extremely difficult, you may want to fabricate the item or purchase a modern replacement temporarily, but eventually, you s
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