Wow, many directions to look in here! I just thought I had looked at it all.
the tractor vet:
I need to find a flow meter, either buy or borrow. I thought the stock filters were good to 14GPM, I just had them on hand. I have the bypass for the bigger filter, but yet to buy the actual filter. I also think I am going to have to make a spacer because it is thicker. I have Blue Ribbon manuals, TC-88 manual, and I&T manual, now I am here seeking answers. As for the steel vs. rubber, the #8 hose is better than what I had to work with originaly. I just need to re-route the hoses some to clean up the arangement. Thank you Vet.
These are early pictures, I have started improving on this...
Ted Bedient
I am a little confused about the "soft plug", but I just aquired a used flow divider to tear down and inspect/learn on and possibly rebuild if required. Thanks.
mkirsch
When I say looked down on, I mean it ties up all remote valves. When I baled hay this year (1st year with the loader) I had to un couple the bucket to hook up the bale chamber door. If it had hydraulic tie, then I would have had to remove the loader. More valves the better options one has. Also it is an antique tractor with a brand new loader, I bought the Koyker 220 in January.
Allan in NE
You hit the nail on the head. A good loader had 3 circuits. I plan to build a "thumb or pair of thumbs" to grapple light brush. I am clearing land and this will save my 27 year old back 8) As soon as the dozer man finishes, I plan to use my 10' Massey tandem to disk 50 acres. I need my remotes for the disk. I found a good deal on a 3 spool Prince valve and I plan to Power beyond between the pump and existing remotes using the Prince adjustable PSI regulator for the loader (2000-2500 psi). I will mount the valve bank on the loader with 3/4" quick-couplings. This way I can revert to stock w/o the loader on the tractor and leave the valve bank with it.
Karl F
I have switched the hoses around and have the same results. I have about 4-6" of cylinder shaft left. But now that you mention it, they may be bottomed out (I feel stupid...). Karl, I think you solved my problem. I will check this tomorrow. It does sit somewhat "uphill" and the loader fits pretty high on the tractor. I will try to lift my 88" flail mower. If it lifts it up, I made an improvement (1300 lbs). When I first installed the loader I could not lift a 6' bucket of dirt.
BEFORE
AFTER (Day I installed. I since installed my lights and new muffler)
Thanks guys for the brainstorming session. I have fought the hydraulics since I installed the loader. It demanded more than the 46 year old system was up to. It was slow, now it is fast (upgraded pump). It used to be intermittent, not it responds instantly (bypassing relief and leaking valves). The help of this site had allowed an Electrician to rebuild the hydraulics of an antique. Sorry for the lengthly post.
Now if anyone has advice on using the bigger filter feel free. I have been told I will have to have a machine shop build a spacer for the cover... If so, anyone know how thick?
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Today's Featured Article - An Old-Time Tractor Demonstration - by Kim Pratt. Sam was born in rural Kansas in 1926. His dad was a hard-working farmer and the children worked hard everyday to help ends meet. In the rural area he grew up in, the highlight of the week was Saturday when many people took a break from their work to go to town. It was on one such Saturday in the early 1940's when Sam was 16 years old that he ended up in Dennison, Kansas to watch a demonstration of a new tractor being put on by a local dealer. It was an Allis-Chalmers tractor dealership,
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