If you have only removed the coupling that is held in there with collars and cotter pins, you can't just remove the three bolts and pull the seal holder off. You have to remove the coupling end that is attached to the transmission counter shaft first. The seal runs on that coupling end. The coupling end is threaded on the counter shaft and has right hand thread and thus unscrews counterclockwise. These can be on there very tight due to the fact that the torque of the drive to the lift all has a tightening effect. You need to rig some kind of wrench made from 1/2 inch bar stock that will fit the slot in the end of the coupling. Then put the PTO in gear and put something on the PTO to keep it from turning. This locks the countershaft. Sometimes just putting the transmission in low gear is enough and engine resistance will be enough to get the coupling to break loose. After the countershaft is locked so it can't turn, then apply counterclockwise torque to the coupling. A few sharp raps with a hammer to your wrench in the slot should be enough to break loose the threaded coupling so you can unscrew it. After that you can remove the three bolts and remove the seal holder and the seal.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Farmall M - by Staff. H so that mountable implements were interchaneable. The Farmall M was most popular with large-acreage row-crop farmers. It was powered by either a high-compression gas engine or a distillate version with lower compression. Options included the Lift-All hydraulic system, a belt pulley, PTO, rubber tires, starter, lights and a swinging drawbar. It could be ordered in the high-crop, wide-front or tricycle configurations. The high-crop version was called a Model MV.
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