For one thing, the internally regulated GM 10 SI Alternator (if thats what you have????) should get its excitation voltage (to make it start charging) from the ignition switches IGN OUTPUT terminal which is hot ONLY after the switch is turned ON via a wire from there to the alternators lil side No 1 terminal.
I prefer a 10 ohm current limiting safety resistor in that circuit after the switches IGN output and before the alternators No 1 terminal which also prevents backfeed ignition run on after ign switch is turned OFF, although an idiot light can serve the same purpose and many use a diode there which also works to prevent backfeed run on. NOTE a diode must be wired in correct polarity to work !!!!!!!!
The ignition switches BAT input terminal should alwayssssssssss be hot as its fed hot battery voltage off the ammeteres load terminal or the LOAD terminal if 4 terminal VR's are used. Thats NOT where the alternator is fed its excitation voltage to its No 1 terminal since thats alwayssssssss hot. The alternator is supposed to be excited when the ignition switch is turned on so thats why the switches IGN Output terminal is used to excite the alternator.
The alternator doesnt feed the ignition switch its operating voltage, the switch (when ON) feeds voltage to the alternator to excite it. The switch gets its hot battery input voltage (on its BAT input terminal) from the ammeter.
Those alternators require negative ground you know!!!!!!!!! reverse may fry them !!!!!!!!!
Insure shes wired so the switches BAT INPUT terminal is always fed hot voltage like from the ammeter while its IGN OUTPUT terminal (hot ONLY when switched ON) feeds the ballast (if used) and coil plus the same terminal can feed/excite the alternators lil No 1 terminal via a series 10 ohm safety current limiting resistor or an idiot light or a diode to prevent backfeed causing run on even after switch is OFF
The alternators other lil side No 2 terminal jumps to its big rear output stud/lug.
WIRE IT PER BOB M DIAGRAMS AND INSURE SHES AT NEG GROUND
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