Posted by P and R Pete on September 17, 2008 at 08:33:59 from (205.238.236.103):
In Reply to: No oil pressure posted by dww on September 16, 2008 at 17:32:17:
dww, hope I'm not talking out my *ss, but I think it's the same engine as my Super-A.
My gauge reads to 30#, (not sure if it was the original gauge), but it was only reading 10# in use. I overhauled my engine, (incl. bearings) as well as my oil pump, so I don't know for sure where I fixed the problem, but now when in use, the gauge stays pegged at 30#, and may want to go higher.
As the oil pump is the easiest to look at, I'd start there first. The intake sump is hinged, so that it will float on top of the oil in the pan. This way, it doesn't get down into the sludge on the bottom, but also so it will follow an oil level that is dropping. If this hinged-action isn't free, your sump may be riding above the top of the oil.
Secondly, there is a screen on it, and it may be getting clogged.
The whole oil pump is very easily removed for inspection, once the oil pan is dropped. Only need to remove two bolts on the side- seen here just above the pan, below the oil filter pedestal.
The pump in it's entirety can then be removed. The shaft of it goes through a drilling in the block, and it's gear engages with a gear on the camshaft, and you can see the drilling and the cam-oil-gear above the crank toward the left side of the pic. the pump/shaft may just drop out, or like mine, may need to be twisted and pulled to extract it.
The "plate" that has been mentioned covers the bottom of the pump, and here has been removed.
I discovered that 1/4" of the paper gasket had been blown out, which certainly didn't help hold up the pressure.
Here's a pic of my bottom plate, and you can see how the gears cut into it, which also affects the pressure. I had a machinist mill mine flat.
It calls for a certain amount of clearance when reinstalling. I happened to get two of the paper gaskets with my 'engine rebuild' kit. With only one gasket, the gears would bind, and with two, they turned freely, so for me, there was no measuring that seemed necessary, and I buttoned it up with both gaskets, with happy results. Other folks may tell you different, about the checking.
So, my advice is to have 2 gaskets on standby. They are very delicate, and very thin, I believe .006 thick.
One last thing, you can easily check to see if the gauge is free- it would move easily with a shot of air from my air compressor.
One other thing to check is the spring on the oil pressure relief valve, to make sure it's not broken. If I understand right, if it's broken, your pressure will bypass the block and get returned right to your oil pan. That valve is also within the pump.
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