Had a newly rebuilt BN that sat too long waiting for paint do that on me. Good chance you'll end up splitting it and cleaning things up and putting them back together.
But . . . before you do that . . .
Check your free play on the pedal to make sure it isn't excessive. Can't come up with the exact amount off the top of my head, but you should have about 1-1/2" of easy push on the pedal where you're only pulling against the return spring before you hit the real resistance of the springs in the clutch cover. That 1-1/2" is your free play and, for checking out the problem should be close enough. If it does come free, you'll want to come back for the correct number on the free play for ordinary operation.
As part of the same exercise, once the free play is about right, look up through the inspection hole at the bottom of the bell on the torque tube. Have a helper depress the brake pedal while you look to see that the throwout bearing is operating the clutch fingers. (A light through the side inspection hole on the left side and further back on the bell can help with this, which might mean a second helper.) If it appears to be doing what it's supposed to, then the problem is likely that your clutch disc has bonded to the surface of either the clutch surface or the flywheel. In that case you can try dragging a heavy load behind the tractor while in gear. Depress the clutch pedal and continue dragging. Try accelerating whle doing this. That might be enough to break things free if they aren't stuck too fast. That fails, you can try BANGING on the brakes while driving with the clutch pedal depressed (this assumes decent brakes, a somewhat rare phenomenon on a tractor!). Whatever you do, don't tie onto a tree and pull! Get something that will slide, or something that rolls with good brakes where the operator can apply the brake while you pull with the tractor.
We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]
Today's Featured Article - Pitfalls of Tractor Engine Rebuilds - by Chris Pratt. The first pop after you have put the machine together with your own hands is exciting and pleasing. The whole experience can be marred if one moves too fast and makes too many assumptions that they can just use "as is" some parts they should be closely scrutinizing and possibly attended to. In such cases, rework makes what could have been a fun project turn into an irritant or even a nightmare. Minor Irritants To give you an example of an minor but irritating proble
... [Read Article]
Latest Ad:
1964 I-H 140 tractor with cultivators and sidedresser. Starts and runs good. Asking 2650. CALL RON AT 502-319-1952
[More Ads]
All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy
TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.
