That's the problem with trying to keep up with too many threads at once.
Of course, you're 12v.
What you'll have to do depends on what was done in converting your tractor to 12volt, i.e., whether they used the old generator harness or stripped it away. Originally, there was one harness carrying the wires up to your generator and relay/regulator that also carried two wires forward for the headlights.
What do you have for a switch on your panel box? It should be the round knob just below your ammeter. It will have three or four positions to it. The three-position controlled only lights. The four position controlled lights and the charge rate from the generator to the battery.
You will need two wires to run from the back of that switch up to your headlights. (If the harness is still in place and it ever did have lights, you might be able to use the ones that are already there. Otherwise, you'll need to buy some wire. The lights were mounted on short posts with the ends flattened. The round end of the posts fit into the front casting, coming out horizontally, and were locked in with square head set screws. The post on the right is shorter on the A, to allow for the bulge in the casting for the steering gear. The lights mount to the posts on threaded studs through holes in the flattened ends of the two posts.
All the hardware can be found as salvage if you go hunting. OEM has the lights and hardware, as well. They're pricy, but a good set of used lights ain't gonna be cheap, either.
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Today's Featured Article - Identifying Tractor Noises - by Curtis Von Fange. Listening To Your Tractor : Part 3 - In this series we are continuing to learn the fine art of listening to our tractor in hopes of keeping it running longer. One particularly important facet is to hear and identify the particular noises that our
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