...but it flexed too much, so I cut and redrilled the channel iron and tried it like this with a 6x6, and it was super-stable...
...and the pulley slid right on.
I did exactly like Hal said, and had the cover loose and the seal coated.
Ron's method sure sounds easier, and my crank was also threaded, but I've heard from others where their's weren't. I had to clean a lot of mud and chaff out to even realize mine was threaded.
I heated my pulley to 200 degrees in our oven, (when the redhead wasn't home), and the bottle jack got it on right quick and easy before it could cool off and start to 'grab', but I've also heard that some bottle jacks won't work when they're on their side, and I've also heard that they will if the 'pump' part of the jack is toward the floor, but I can't promise anything either way. Mine worked, and I don't remember if I had the 'pump' at the bottom or not. Big help, huh?
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Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
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