Jerry Gilliam said: (quoted from post at 16:08:33 11/09/08) Thanks. I would hope the steel pipe does not somehow scar the cyl rod, but thinking about it, it should not really touch anything but the rod end coupler and the end of the cyl housing where the piston rod comes out. Thanks Jerry
Jerry, the pipe method will work. But. You have to remember that everytime you hit a bump it is magnified by the unsprung weight hanging at the end of the loader (boom and bucket). Everytime this happens the cylinder moves some, (magnified by leaking cylinders, if they did not leak you would not be asking this question) the clevis end is going to drive the sch 80 pipe down on the gland packing and eventualy causing gland failure. Not to mention the wear of the sch 80 pipe rubbing the CHROME CYLINDER ROD!
Jerry, take the time and a little cash to tear your cylinders down and repack the piston and glands. It may cost $100 or so to do this to both cylinders. It is fairly easy to do if you can get the info from the cylinder. If not take it to a hydraulic shop. Once fixed, unplug the cylinders and go bale.
I had mine unhooked for 3 days and baled a little over 200 bales last month. The loader never dropped. Because I had GOOD CYLINDERS. After I baled the hay is when I finished the loader valve that I posted pics of.
Fix your cylinders, ruining them with some cockimime rigging is not worth it in the long run... My career is an Industrial Maintenance Tech, I know a little about hydraulics... Trained by Eaton.
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Today's Featured Article - Trenching With a Plow - by Staff. Introduction: This interesting information came from one of the discussion forums here at YT. We thought we should place it up front so it could be read by anyone interested in putting old iron to work. [Editor] I tried something new today, and it worked so well I thought I should post it - in case it might help someone else. I'm running 100 yards of 4" drain pipe from the gutter downspouts of our house to a pond down the hill. This should hel
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