Len Remember well driving the 10-20 on steel & Regular on rubber. Dad had rubber put on the Regular around 49 or 50. Had the spokes cut off & rims welded on. Used 36's so the rim just cleared the top of the brake drum. Bigger wheel made it run "down hil". Dad thought that would be bad for oil pressure, so had a spacer welded into the steering post below the lower bearing, but above the wheel spindles. That made it sit level. Shop did bad welding job, broke off once. On second try, had 3/4 in dowel pins put in the spacer before welding. That held. My favorite job was cutting oats. With a "suicide" knob & brake cable set right, could cut a perfect square corner. Of course, with the binder seat sticking out back, Dad got a wild ride on the corners. Had rubber on front of the 10-20. Plowing was easy. Just cut the wheel a tad to the left so tire scrubbed the edge of furrow, it would follow across the field. If we got tired, & Dad wasn't watching, my brother & I would sometimes set it up, then get off & walk along side for a while. memories of the 50's Willie
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Today's Featured Article - Fabrication (Who Me? Make it myself?) - by Chris Pratt. First of all, what are the reasons for not fabricatin your own parts? Most judgements on what should be purchased rather than fabricated stem from: Originality - If the tractor restoration is to be 100% original, it is likely that you should spend the time and money to locate the component in the used or New-old-stock market. Since this can be extremely difficult, you may want to fabricate the item or purchase a modern replacement temporarily, but eventually, you s
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