Remove the spark plugs, Remove the valve cover, and the rocker shaft, rockers, and push rods. Be careful to not pull lifters out of their bore, sometimes the pushrods get a suction fit to the lifters, be patient, and keep them in order frnt to back. You will need a lever type valve spring compressor, and a 2' piece of 1/4" cotton rope. Use a 9/16" deep socket as follows. Use a plastic faced hammer and the socket (alone) to loosen each valve keeper. Place the socket o the valve keeper so the socket covers the stem. Rap the socket modestly with the hammer. This breaks the bond of the keepers to allow easy removal. Pull the plugs out. In number one cylinder, push in all but 6" or so of the rope. Hand crank. or use the fan belt to turn the cylinder untill the rope is compressed into the valves holding them up in place. Put it in gear to keep the engine from turning backward. Now use the spring compressor to remove the keeper and spring. Put on the seal as directed in the material supplied with the seals. All cylinders are done in the same way. JimN
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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