You can try driving them up with a jack or down with a post. Before that or between you can try a diesel/ATF mixture, your favorite rust breaker, or any other dozens of other people's favorite.
If it looks quite stubborn, you can burn the mixture in the holes to give some thermal cycling to allow the penetrant to sneak deeper; also, if you try wacking the piston just after the flame goes out (may want a rag around the post to protect yourself from any hot residue), a cold piston and warm sleeve should break easier.
See if you can get a pair to move up (a jack is a good option), then removing the caps on the other two you can drive them down putting force on only one at a time.
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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