Starting these tractors you can easily dig yourself into a hole that will make you think all kinds of things are wrong, when in reality, nothing is wrong at all. You end up tearing things down, changing timing, getting everything all discombobulated to the point where the tractor will not run at all...
You can quickly go from dry to flooded if you use too much choke. Quick blips is the safest method to use if you are not familiar with the tractor.
Tractors start best at idle, or just above. Vacuum is the highest when the throttle is set to idle or slightly above. Normally they should start at any throttle level, but yours is so far off, the only way it'll even fire at all is under those "ideal" conditions.
First thing at this point, get the carb all cleaned out and set up correctly. Put a "rebuild" kit in. The float level is probably a little off from rough handling. Get the float level right, clean everything out.
Make sure you've got that timing right. Backfires indicate to me you're still a little off.
Two things:
1. You do not need to spend way too much money on a rebuilt carburetor unless yours is physically broken or missing. If you can get the carburetor off the tractor without resorting to a reciporicating saw or acetylene torch, you can rebuild it yourself. It may take 2-3 attempts to get things just right, but afterwards, you will be able to fix any carb.
2. Tow starting will not cure a carburetor or ignition problem. Tow starting is not a cure for any problem, really. It's just a way to get a tractor with a bad starter or weak battery running because you need to use it or move it. With good electricals, a letter series Farmall should fire and run within 2 revolutions of the starter.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Earthmaster - by Staff. This tractor, manufactured by the Earthmaster Farm Equipment company in Burbank, California was made for only two years. The Model C came out in 1948 and was followed by the "CN" (narrow-width model), "CNH (narrow-width high-crop model), "CH" (high-crop), "D" and the "DH" (high-crop) in 1949. The main difference between the models was tire size, tractor width and cultivating height. The "D" series were about 20 inches wider overall than the
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