Check the voltage between the large BAT terminal on the alternator and the alternator case -OR- directly across the battery posts.
With the engine running you should see 14.0 - 14.5 volts. 12.6 volts or less says the system is not charging.
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Regarding the "no charge" problem try this first:
Run the engine up to max RPM then push the "excite" button. It may simply be the replacement alternator has a higher "turn on" RPM than the old one.
If that doesn't work pull the aux connector from the alterator then test each connector terminal for voltage. You should see battery voltage at #1 when the "excite" button is pressed. And #2 should show battery voltage at all times.
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If the above checks out (indicating the wiring is OK...) the problem could be the replacement alternator has problems. You can isolate the problem with this test:
With the engine running at about 1/2 throttle push the "excite" button. Now take a small screwdriver and touch its tip to the tab inside the D-shaped opening on the back of the alternator (photo). While keeping the tip in contact with the tap ground the screwdriver shank to the side of the opening.
If the ammeter show 20+ amps charge with the tab grounded it means the alternator's internal regulator is bad. However if still no charge the alternator is NG. Note: You can replace the internal regulator yourself for around $10.
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning-Up Your Tractor: Plugs & Compression Testing - by Curtis Von Fange. The engine seems to run rough. In the exhaust you can hear an occasion 'poofing' sound like somethings not firing on all cylinders. Under loaded conditions the tractor seems to lack power and it belches black smoke out of the exhaust. For some reason it just doesn't want to start up without cranking and cranking the starter. All these conditions can be signals that your unit is in need of a tune up. Ok, so what is involved in a tune up? You say, swap plugs and file the points....now tha
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