Drove me nuts too (656 gas). I was installing replacement intake and exhaust manifolds and couldn't figure out which way to install the replacement spring. I used a propane torch to heat it up, watched it work while temporarily attached to shaft, etc. but it just never moved the flapper in the correct direction.
Eventually gave up trying to install it. Since I live where it's warmer I fabbed a thin sheet of steel to replace the gasket and totally sealed off the chamber. Bad idea (as a poster here warned me about immediately after I did it.) Took TOO long to warm up, even on a decent day.
This fall when timing the valves I gave it another go. Got the propane torch out again and studied the problem. Turns out either the spring WAS wrong or they forgot to put a bend in it. I added a little loop to the spring, (the loop you see going around the post that sticks out of the manifold) and it now works perfectly. If you are installing the shaft and a new plate at the same time be careful with the welder. I thought it would be smart to run a bead to attach the flapper to the shaft instead of just tacking it. WRONG. I warped the shaft a little and had to work it a while before it would let the counter weight do it's thing again. The attached pic was taken with the engine cold. You can just see the top of the counter-weight peaking out over the top of the exhust manifold.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Farmall M - by Staff. H so that mountable implements were interchaneable. The Farmall M was most popular with large-acreage row-crop farmers. It was powered by either a high-compression gas engine or a distillate version with lower compression. Options included the Lift-All hydraulic system, a belt pulley, PTO, rubber tires, starter, lights and a swinging drawbar. It could be ordered in the high-crop, wide-front or tricycle configurations. The high-crop version was called a Model MV.
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