Mark, a simple ohm meter continuity test can "make sure its bad" as you asked butttttttttt it cant tell you if its good !!!!!!!!! i.e. just cuz it passes the simple low voltage ohm continuity tests dont mean it wont still break down at high voltage and under temperatire conditions.
The primary as measured between its lil + and - terminals would be around 1.25 to under 2 ohms on a 6 volt coil BUT if its an open (near infinity ohms) circuit its BAD for sure.....
Use a test lamp or voltmeter to make sure theres hot battery voltage on the coils input (NOT distributor side) when the ignition is turned on cuz shes never gonna fire otherwise......
Then place a 6/12 test lamp on the coils other (TO distributor) side (other lead to frame ground) and it should lite up when the points open but go dead off when they are closed...
Remove the cap to make sure the points are gapped correct and open n fully close as the distributor shaft rotates......
A COMMON problem is the points are burned or pitted badly so check that and clean/file/buff them as necessary and check the gap n try again n see if she fires?????
To isolate if its a cap or rotor problem ONLY,,,,,, remove the coil wire from the top of distributor (leave coil end intact) n place that bare end 1/8 from tractor steel n turn on ignition n crank engione n see if a spark jumps that coil wire gap ??? If so but NOT out any plug wires once cap is replaced, its a cap or rotor or plug wire type problem
CHECK THE POINTS FOR GAP AND CLEAN/FILE N TRY THEM OR REPALCE IF BAD BURNED OR PITTED THAT MAY BE ALL THE PROBLEM
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulic Basics - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In the last entry to this series we gave a brief overview of hydraulic system theory, its basic components and how it works. Now lets take a look at some general maintenance tips that will keep our system operating to its fullest potential. The two biggest enemies to a hydraulic system are dirt and water. Dirt can score the insides of cylinders, spool valves and pumps. Wate
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