Posted by ScottyHOMEy on February 21, 2009 at 07:58:34 from (64.222.247.5):
In Reply to: 2150 color posted by mkirsch on February 21, 2009 at 07:32:26:
On the CaseIH Iron Guard, I've noticed it, too, and could only speculate but wonder maybe if it didn't change a little when they switched over to the lead-free base (i.e., maybe they didn't change the tint formula when they changed bases???) As recently as five years ago, the stuff I was getting had a lead warning on the can, but the color was right. The warning isn't there on the newer stuff, and that's the stuff I'm seeing the difference in.
2150 always was a little bit more orange than 50.
I also wonder if Case IH didn't change the color specs a ilttle bit without changing the number. I had PPG mix up some paint for my BN to match 2150. The project sat for quite a while. When I did eventually get started, I was quite happy with the color, but needed more paint. The next two quarts were almost exactly what you describe, closer to Persian Orange than IH Red. Trick was the label for the custom mix on the older cans read the same as what the new batch was. Wound up scanning some parts I'd already painted to get a new mix to match it. Maybe a PPG problem, maybe the first guy or the second one mis-mixed, but a second attempt on the second batch came up the same, way too orange.
Oddly enough, PPGs formulation (in the book/computer)for 2150 is gobs of orange, gobs of violet and a little each of black and white, not a drop of red in sight. The mix we made from the scan was closer to equal parts of red, a different orange and violet, with some white and a little more black than the original.
I think you're right on letting whats there now cure before trying to shoot anything over it. Other than that, I'm too much of a novice to advise on what works over what, different bases, the effect of hardeners . . .
Have you put this over on the paint and bodywork board, too? If glennster or another painter dosesn't jump in her, you might ask about the technical side over ther.
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