Tom: I've always done these right on the tractor. I block the tractor well under the clutch housing, with front wheels about 1/4" off floor. Choke rear wheels well. This front end is rather ackward, thus I remove tyrods at steering control arm. Unclamp left axle at telescope wheel tread setting and remove entire left wheel assembly in one piece. The remove front axle pivot pin and take right assembly complete with center tube to the right.
You can then remove bottom half of steering box in unison with steering control arm. You can remove the radiator then front bolster, however I find that bolster with steering shaft is damn ackward to handle on a bench. It's your call on removing bolster, however I can tell you the shaft can be removed quite easily, with bolster still on tractor.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Farmall M - by Staff. H so that mountable implements were interchaneable. The Farmall M was most popular with large-acreage row-crop farmers. It was powered by either a high-compression gas engine or a distillate version with lower compression. Options included the Lift-All hydraulic system, a belt pulley, PTO, rubber tires, starter, lights and a swinging drawbar. It could be ordered in the high-crop, wide-front or tricycle configurations. The high-crop version was called a Model MV.
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