There are no "umbrella" seals on an 806 Roosa Master pump shaft. The pump adaptor housing has two lip type seals in it, one facing each way. The only other seal in an O-ring. The pump drive shaft as well as the driven plate inside the pump are marked with a dimple. As long as the pump is reassembled back on the shaft with the marks aligned the ump will be in time with the camshaft.
When I remove the pump on an 806 I remove the the insulator bracket from the injection lines so that I can separate them enough to slide the pump back between them. You will most likely need to replace the insulator pads so that the line do not touch the metal of the bracket. Vibration will wear a hole in them if they are not kept from metal to metal contact.
If the throttle arm is not wired back when the pump is removed it is not a big deal. Just make sure that the ends of the governor lever are back in the slots of the bushing and wire the arm back as you go to install the pump.
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Today's Featured Article - Trenching With a Plow - by Staff. Introduction: This interesting information came from one of the discussion forums here at YT. We thought we should place it up front so it could be read by anyone interested in putting old iron to work. [Editor] I tried something new today, and it worked so well I thought I should post it - in case it might help someone else. I'm running 100 yards of 4" drain pipe from the gutter downspouts of our house to a pond down the hill. This should hel
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