bleed red: As Scotty said, wheels dished in and 9.5 tires you'll be down to 73" overall width. A good cutting 6' disk will stop you. The thing about tillage is traction, and more rubber on the ground will do you more good than added weight.
I pull a 6'5", 20 - 18" blades with my 130 or 140, and both have 12.4x24 tires. I get along very well, but very ocasionally run out of traction. Recently we had this same discussion on big tractors, and it's really no different, rubber on the ground is your traction. There have been countless farmers with 60-150 hp tractors dumped the chloride and weights, then added duals and were amazed by the performance disking. I know I couldn't believe the difference in my 1066, back 33 years ago. This is exactly why my 130 and 140 have 12.4x24 tires. The extra width, plus added circumference has the same effect as dualing a 9.5x24.
This width is one of the problems with a Farmall B, you just can't get that width down to match weight, power and traction required for tillage work. You can do it with a Farmall A, because you can reduce the width. What you need is a 4 wheel drive unit for the B. Call Gene Bender, he will build you a 4x4 Farmall B, he has the technology, at least he's done every thing imaginable with a B.
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Today's Featured Article - Uncle Cecil's Super A Lives Again - by Mike Purcell. A week or so out of most of my childhood summers was often spent with my Uncle Cecil and Aunt Sissie in the small East Texas town of Maydelle on their 80 acre farm. Some of my fondest memories of these visits are those of learning to drive a tractor at the helm of Uncle Cecil’s 1948 Farmall Super A. Uncle Cecil was the second owner of this wonderful little tractor, but it was almost as though he had adopted an infant. The original owner was a man from Minnesota who bought her from a local dea
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