I believe your issue is with the supply. A poor connection at any point in the supply wires will allow a typical meter to read almost full battery volts when no load is on the circuit. But! If the circuit is loaded (light bulb is installed) the high resistance (corroded) link will just stop flowing electrons. (for the same reason a poor battery connection in a car will allow the idiot lights to come on with the key, but go out when the starter is turned on as a load) Proceed this way:
Put one light into the circuit (as you have been). Use a hot wire (from the battery Negative (assumes 6v pos ground)) long enough to get to the light. (be careful with it because it can make sparks and smoke if touched to ground) Touch the terminal on the light that is attached to the normal supply wire (I bet the light now lights up.) Next follow that wire back to the light switch and touch the hot wire to the terminal on the switch that is connected to the light. (again I bet the light lights up) Now touch it to the terminal going into the switch from the fuse (now I will hedge by saying this if no lights, the switch has high resistance. If lights, Move the hot wire to the input to the fuse. (again if no lights it is high resistance in the fuse, or holder). If lights, go to the terminal on the amp gauge supplying the fuse. Then to the other side of the amp gauge. Then to the connection at the starter switch.
In each case you are replacing the source with a (fresh) hot wire electron path. One of these will make no difference (light will stay off) that thing needs cleaned and shined up, sprayed with corrosion inhibitor, and sealed against further corrosion. Best of luck, JimN
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