Jim, I took the entire cover off tonight and found that it was locked in reverse. The detent ball (?) for the reverse fork rail or whatever its called was jambed up. Once I took it off and popped the fork with my palm, it slid back into place. After a couple tries at getting the cover back on with all the forks in the right place, it shifted just fine. Now I just need to find all the gaskets and seals for the A. The gear oil was milky from water seeping in around the bolts/gasket and I'm sure the shifter. The detent ball had a little rust on it and I think was the cause of the stiffness.
Checked for spark on the mag by unplugging the wire from the mag to the cap and arcing it to the steering shaft while I turned the hand crank... surprisingly good pop to it.
Carb was rebuilt by a "pro" about 4 months ago (before I got it) and the float must be out of adjustment because it leaks gas out of the air intake on the carb. Turned it over a few times with the handcrank and got a few puffs of smoke and maybe half a pop, but I guess its flooding too much with the carb overflowing like it is.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulic Basics - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In the last entry to this series we gave a brief overview of hydraulic system theory, its basic components and how it works. Now lets take a look at some general maintenance tips that will keep our system operating to its fullest potential. The two biggest enemies to a hydraulic system are dirt and water. Dirt can score the insides of cylinders, spool valves and pumps. Wate
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