After retiming and changing plugs, points, rotor, etc as well as rebuilding the "professionally" rebuilt carb, we finally got the A running last night and drove it around... Thats its first trip out of the garage since I got it a couple weeks ago. Let it run for about 20 mins and apprehensively cut it off to see if it would crank again... Luckily it did. Carb doesn't seem to leak anymore unless I flood it trying to crank it. The odd thing is that the main needle had to be turning all the way in for it to run right... I guess its worn that much? Seems to idle fairly high, but I'm not even sure how to hook up my dwell/tach meter to a magneto now that I think of it.
Drove it out in the yard today and got most of the grease build-up off of it. Just in time as my garden is getting overrun with spiny pigweed (new garden in old pasture...) If I can just figure out these cultivators or find some info on them.
Oh yeah, the problem with the carb/float leaking apparently was the viton tipped needle had been manually set which someone on here suggested, but the napa rebuilt instructions warned against. The kit came with new needle and seat and after carefully adjusting the float to specs while not applying any pressure to the needle, the carb worked much much better. Plus the guy that rebuilt the carb used the wrong gasket out of the kit he got...
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Earthmaster - by Staff. This tractor, manufactured by the Earthmaster Farm Equipment company in Burbank, California was made for only two years. The Model C came out in 1948 and was followed by the "CN" (narrow-width model), "CNH (narrow-width high-crop model), "CH" (high-crop), "D" and the "DH" (high-crop) in 1949. The main difference between the models was tire size, tractor width and cultivating height. The "D" series were about 20 inches wider overall than the
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1964 I-H 140 tractor with cultivators and sidedresser. Starts and runs good. Asking 2650. CALL RON AT 502-319-1952
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