You do need to get a manual if you're going to get into this, but what I can say to get you started is what they call the pressure regulator valve and the safety valve are under the head at the rear of the T/C block. Investigating and curing that will mean removal of the T/C unit. If pressure turns out to be the problem and you need to go in that far, get the book and get the kit (consisting of 14,322 individual o-rings -- when you're all done you should have 8 left over if you did it right) and overhaul the whole riggin' while you're in there.
As far as testing the pressure, no-load low pressure will be too low to trigger a gauge, 40# or less. Pressure under a load (operating arms rigged with something substantial to lift -- the manual suggests a couple of wheel weights) should fall into the 1100-1500 psi range. If you've got something heavy on you FastHitch, that will suffice.
The gauge does hook up in the area you mentioned. It goes into the rear pipe plug of the manifold that joins up to the T/C block.
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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