Posted by mattofvinings on June 06, 2009 at 16:37:24 from (67.142.161.33):
In Reply to: hyd cylinder 2350 posted by Mike186 on June 06, 2009 at 11:43:26:
Just a couple of generic observation from rebuilding other types of hydraulic cylinders...
....if the rod chroming is rusted or chipped it will eat the u-cup rod seal in no time at all. Best you can do with a mild case is to use something like a 600-grit diemaker's stone to smooth over the rough spots. Worse than that it's time for another cylinder or to have the rod refurbished, rechromed and ground back to size
...if the rod is bent or the internal bushing which centers the rod is worn oversized then the seal will never work correctly. Same condition can apply if the hydraulic cylinder isn't "floating" on the end-pins and the rod is "side-loaded".
....I don't know if you used a rod scraper in your kit (I assume so for outdoor/off-hwy cylinders) but this is an important piece, as it excludes as much debris as it can from the more sensitive u-cup which is actually doing the sealing. The grit will abrade and damage the u-cup. An aside here, often outdoor cylinders can get water in them over time, simply from being outdoors, condensation, etc, which can get rust in the seal glands. If this isn't cleaned up at the time of rebuild, one of two things can happen, a) the loose rust can act as a lapping compound to eat the seal, or b) the "gland" or groove where the seal fits in can get rough and oil can leak behind the "back" side of the seal.
....also any o-ring which seals the endcap of a cylinder (in order to remove and assemble the piston) can also have issues which may appear as a leak at the rod packing. Good to wipe everything clean with solvent and then start carefully testing under pressure so you know exactly where to go looking.
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