First of all The lights working and no amp gauge movement means either the amp gauge is stuck (frozen), or wired incorrectly. The lights should be wired through the amp meter to the starter switch then to the negative post of the battery. Thus when the lights are on, the amp gauge moves. The fact that it does not tells me that you may be in better shape than you thought. With it running at 3/4 throttle or above, test the battery voltage with the switch set at the second position from far CCW. This is the high charge position. It should show about 7 to 7.4 volts across the battery terminals. If it does, you are charging correctly. Turn the switch to full CCW and check the volts. 6.5 to 6.7 are good numbers on Low charge. Turn the switch to D (third from full CCW) and the voltage should be same as in the High charge position 7 to 7.4 volts. If so this indicates that the light resistor is open (bad) or the light switch terminals are not making contact on Dim. If the voltage is OK, I would check the wiring against Bob M's Diagrams and if OK, I would replace the amp meter. Let us know what you find. JimN
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Earthmaster - by Staff. This tractor, manufactured by the Earthmaster Farm Equipment company in Burbank, California was made for only two years. The Model C came out in 1948 and was followed by the "CN" (narrow-width model), "CNH (narrow-width high-crop model), "CH" (high-crop), "D" and the "DH" (high-crop) in 1949. The main difference between the models was tire size, tractor width and cultivating height. The "D" series were about 20 inches wider overall than the
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