With a on off switch to the alternator "excite" terminal, (assuming you shut that switch off when the tractor is not running) the tractor seems to be wired OK. (I prefer either a parking light bulb (filament type not LED), or a diode in the excite wire because it is convenient. The most likely problem is the internal diodes in the alternator. If one of these has gone bad, it will pass current in the wrong direction letting the battery go down. The remaining diodes will work well enough to charge the battery when used. Use a multi meter with a built in amp meter as follows: Disconnect the alternator big wire. Set the amp meter on its highest amp setting (you may need to move a lead to a different spot on the meter) connect the amp meter leads with the black on the post of alternator and the red on the wire you disconnected. The reading should be less than 150 milliamps. You may need to adjust the meter settings to get an "in range reading". 1000ma equals one amp, so 150 milliamps equals .15 amps. If it is more like one amp, the the battery will drain in approximately 50 hrs (this depends on the battery and is not a hard number) If it is less than the 150ma, the diodes are OK. A battery with a cell going bad can also self discharge. This mimics the situation you have. Even new batteries can be bad. JimN
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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