Well, Thanks to all you guys who responded. With all due respect, I had fully intended on letting you all know what I found. I checked the govenor connection in to the carb. and it was ok. I did not remove the throttle plate when I had the carb apart as it looked ok. I know that it is in the right way. All I can come up with is that I did feel just a tiny bit of play in the throttle shaft. Could it be possible that it is just enough to make it suck air through there? I can get the tractor to idle down but it just seems like it won't idle slow enough. I don't have a tachometer handy but I'm pretty good at knowing the proper idle speed by ear. The idle mixture screw is at about 1/2 turn open. I live at 5500 ft. elevation. The high speed screw is at about 2 turns open. My conclusion is that I probably will take the carb. off and send it into Denny's carb. shop for a rebuild and have the throttle shaft fixed, and maybe there is something else wrong that I didn't catch. It runs good at half or full throttle, it just doesn't seem to want to idle down as slow as it should and is a little rough when it does idle. I am still open to any advise, but I think I will just send the carb. in for a good rebuild. Thanks again for all your comments. And as far as jumping right on the computer to get advise from you IH Gooroos you should feel good that we are seeking advise from someone wiser!! ( LOL )
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Lead Substitutes - by Mike Schordine. Lead was oriinally added to gasoline as an upper cylinder lubricant. It lubes the valves and seats. If you rebuild the motor, you could use hardened seats and valves, and unleaded fuel. But if your old tractor runs good, a simple lead substitute added to the gas is a perfectly reasonable solution. And, if you are like me, your tractor is under cover, but it sits outside. So with every temperature change, the humidity in the air collects in the fuel tank, in the form of water.
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