Jim Becker's Idea is a good one. A big diode from an alternator trio can be scavenged and placed between the Bat and Arm terminals in place of the cutout relay mechanism. Just remove the internal components. and keep the terminals insulated from ground.
Use the diode hooked up so that a test light will not light when one end of the diode is hooked to the Negative ground, and the other lead (or mount) is touched with the light probe. You can do this at the battery negative post. Just switch ends if it lights up, and remember to attach it in the old housing so the ARM terminal is connected to the same end that did not light up the test lamp.
If your tractor has a 4 position light switch that is connected to the F terminal, it should work like normal. The F terminal on the cutout will still not be used. If the F terminal was used (going to the F terminal on the gen) and you are happy with the charge rate, do not destroy the resistor or connection to the F terminal on the old Cutout housing. Good luck, JimN
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Today's Featured Article - Uncle Cecil's Super A Lives Again - by Mike Purcell. A week or so out of most of my childhood summers was often spent with my Uncle Cecil and Aunt Sissie in the small East Texas town of Maydelle on their 80 acre farm. Some of my fondest memories of these visits are those of learning to drive a tractor at the helm of Uncle Cecil’s 1948 Farmall Super A. Uncle Cecil was the second owner of this wonderful little tractor, but it was almost as though he had adopted an infant. The original owner was a man from Minnesota who bought her from a local dea
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