Bob - THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU. You were absolutely correct about the needle valve but you knew that. With my abundance of carb parts, I found two needles and float combinations that worked well. I tested each one on the bench using water to fill the float bowl while holding my finger to plug the bottom. It took me a few attempts to find a needle/float and the part that the needle seats into before I had the right combination. One of the carbs that leaked the most was a professional rebuild. Anyway, no carb leaks now.
I tried to pull start the 1925 on steel. Got some pop/backfires and nothing else so my timing must still be off. I will copy the settings from my 1927.
I pulled started the 1927 and ran it for two hours. It galloped just a bit but when I took a steep hill, the governed kicked in and just powered up the hill perfectly. Drove it about 2.5 miles and let it idle for long periods. THE CARB NEVER LEAKED ONCE!
THE BEST PART: I backed it into the garage and killed the motor at low idle and fully retarded the mag. I set the idle up, 1/2 on the timing and it started on the first pull. I idled it and killed it four more time and restarted it!!!!!!! Thank You. I shut the fuel off and the carb didn't leak!! Tonight, I will try to crank start it and see how I do!.
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Today's Featured Article - Pitfalls of Tractor Engine Rebuilds - by Chris Pratt. The first pop after you have put the machine together with your own hands is exciting and pleasing. The whole experience can be marred if one moves too fast and makes too many assumptions that they can just use "as is" some parts they should be closely scrutinizing and possibly attended to. In such cases, rework makes what could have been a fun project turn into an irritant or even a nightmare. Minor Irritants To give you an example of an minor but irritating proble
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