Just hang in there. This problem is able to be solved--just don't get down. You're saying you have 12 volts at the the large terminal on the alt, so that means #2 terminal also has 12 volts. Now is there voltage at the big terminal at all times? or only with the ignition switch on? There should be 12 volts at this terminal at all times. Let's back up a moment---make sure that the points are open before doing any testing. Now, the #1 terminal--is there voltage present here at all times? Should be voltage here only with ignition switch on. Should be .7 volts less than the battery voltage with the switch on. No voltage with ignition switch on at #1? Check for voltage at the hot terminal of the ballast resistor coming from the ignition switch which feeds the coil. If full battery voltage at hot wire to resistor, there is a problem with the wire/diode going to the #1 terminal. No battery voltage at the hot terminal of the ballast resistor? There is a problem between the battery hot terminal/ignition switch/wiring to the ballast resistor. If tests above don't show up any problems, likely the regulator will have to be replaced.
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning-Up Your Tractor: Plugs & Compression Testing - by Curtis Von Fange. The engine seems to run rough. In the exhaust you can hear an occasion 'poofing' sound like somethings not firing on all cylinders. Under loaded conditions the tractor seems to lack power and it belches black smoke out of the exhaust. For some reason it just doesn't want to start up without cranking and cranking the starter. All these conditions can be signals that your unit is in need of a tune up. Ok, so what is involved in a tune up? You say, swap plugs and file the points....now tha
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